Poppy Seed Roulade
After a niece raved about an Israeli poppy seed pastry, I set out on a recipe search that ultimately led, not to the Middle East, but to this Hungarian pastry, known as Beigli. Which seems fitting, given that I am of Hungarian descent, on my mother’s side.
The roots of Beigli can be traced to Germany and the former Austro-Hungarian Empire. In what is now Hungary, it gradually replaced other holiday breads and became a traditional treat for both Christmas and Easter.
It also found a place in Hungarian Jewish households. I discovered a recipe in a Jewish holiday cookbook submitted by a woman who recalled her grandmother baking Beigli for Purim.
There are two classic Beigli fillings: walnut (diós) and poppy seed (mákos), each carrying its own symbolism. Walnuts were believed to ward off evil and misfortune, while poppy seeds, with their abundance of tiny kernels, symbolized prosperity and plenty.
As readers of this recipe blog know, I am a firm believer in making everything from scratch. In this case, however, I recommend using canned poppy seed filling. Homemade poppy seed filling is a major undertaking, requiring the seeds to be finely ground in a nut grinder or coffee mill.
For New Yorkers, the good old days offered easier options. Freshly ground poppy seeds could be found at H. Roth & Sons or Lekvar by the Barrel, but sadly both are long gone.
The bottom line: save yourself the effort and pick up a can of Solo Poppy Seed Cake & Pastry Filling at the supermarket. It works beautifully in this recipe.
Once the basic Sweet Yeast Dough is made, this is quite and easy recipe.
Poppy Seed Roulade
| Yield: 1 9″ roulade | Serves: 8 | Difficulty: Moderate |
1 lb. Sweet Yeast Dough
1 can (12.5 oz) Solo Poppy Seed Cake and Pastry filling
2 tsp lemon zest
1 large egg, lightly beaten
Special tools and equipment needed:
- 1 half sheet pan, or heavy cookie sheet
- Parchment paper or silpat
- Rolling pin
- Pastry brush
- Small offset spatula
Pre-recipe preparations:
- Zest the lemon
- Preheat oven to 350°F
Directions:
- Day 1: Make the Sweet Yeast Dough and let chill overnight in the refrigerator.
- Day 2: Remove the poppy seed filling into a bowl and mix in the lemon rind. Set aside.
- Measure out 1 lb of the dough and roll into a 12 ½” by 10” rectangle. Dampen the pastry brush in water and brush the outer ½” of the dough.
- Using the offset spatula, spread the filling to the dampened ½” border.
- Form a tight roulade by bringing the top of the long edge toward you and keeping the roulade straight and tight. Pinch the edges to prevent the filling from seeping out.
- Place the roulade on the baking sheet, seam side down. Cover with a damp kitchen towel to prevent a crust from forming and place in a warm place to rise.
- While the roulade is rising, preheat the oven to 400°F
- Let rise until, soft, puffy and about 1.5 times its original size.
- Brush well with egg wash (beaten egg). Pierce the pastry all over the tines of a dinner fork, which will allow steam to escape and prevent the roulade from cracking open.
- Bake for 15 minutes, reduce the heat to 375°F, and bake for approximately another 15 minutes, until pastries are golden brown and firm to the touch. The interior should register around 208°F on an instant read thermometer.
- Let the roulade cool for 10 minutes, then remove to a cooling rack. Serve slightly warm or at room temperature.
- Leftovers may wrapped in plastic film and stored at room temperature for 2 days, or frozen for 1 month.
